This is actually my first post so hello everyone! @TCB13, I appreciate your comparison post of the cards, very helpful indeed. I currently have the 36H and 36NH now- I am considering the 36NHA or 51NH, not necessarily for distance but more for injection speed and reliability (prob 51NH). However, I just noticed there is a newer AWUS036NHV card out now (blue version). Do you have any personal experience or have heard any reviews of this particular card? (Anyone?) Thanks!
Hello everyone, I'm about to get an Alfa card but not sure which one and internet is (as usual) making it more confusing I've had the classic Alfa AWUS036H years ago but I managed to break it recently and now I need a new one. But I'm not sure if I should go with the same one or buy something 'better'. I already discarded many cards due to some personal preferences. I've been looking at the NHR as well which didn't have much success from what I've read but I noticed there is a new version (v2) which works good with Kali but I didn't find many information about it. Is it better than the 036H in any aspect? Another one that I've been looking at is the Alfa AWUS051NH which seems well regarded, including the posts in this thread. Is it really that better than the original 036H? Regarding the use, I'd be using it mostly for packet injection, WiFi sniffing etc. but also for standard WiFi usage when the signal is not strong enough. Thanks for your time and suggestions. Kristina
@KristinaKekic, Take a look at post: https://xiaopan.co/forums/threads/awus036nhr-v-awus036nh-comparison.330/page-6#post-15417 I have several alfa cards and I finally got around to testing them side by side with a network analyzer using both an omni-directional (alfa's 9dbi) and 2 different directional (turbotenna's 16dbi yagi & alfa's 7dbi panel). From what I've found, @TCB13 's post is pretty accurate. The Alfa AWUS036H card's range is still the best by far. If you attach the 9dbi antenna with it, you will get a very large range of coverage in all directions. The Alfa AWUS051NH does not get as strong of a signal on the same networks as the 36H, however, the speed itself seems a bit faster in terms of injecting. I found the distance factor can be slightly improved by using it with the 7dbi panel filter (surprisingly better than the yagi). I also have the 36NH (green) card but it's performance, speed, and general compatibility are all worse and not worth mentioning. My final findings: Get both the 36H and 51NH in your collection 1. The 36H with 9dbi omni-directional antenna is great for scanning and sniffing for large distances. 2. The 51NH with 7dbi panel antenna is great for actual injection. Both work happily and simultaneously in Kali without problems.
My NHR v1 is also dead last month because I turn around the omni for positioning but accidentally counterclockwise and bam! found no signal ... I brought NHR v2 to replace it ... but it even worse (I got green board v2) it got really unstable signal compared to v1 (tested by same APs that i used to working fine with v1) this hurt me bad because I can't find NHR v1 to replace it and I need " N " have anyone try to re-soldering to repair NHR v1 ? YouTube VideoWatch this video on YouTube. I tried re-soldered mine but without success since (maybe my chip is dead) Sigh... I don't know what model to buy to replace NHR v1's " N " range ....
So guys, i've read this whole topic and i'm still not sure. Which adapter do you recommend i get for better Rogue AP at long distances ? They say here the maximum output power for the AWUS036NHA is 650 mW. But on the internet it's announced as 2000 mW like here -> http://www.data-alliance.net/alfa-2...-11n-atheros-chipset-jack-antenna-awus036nha/ My main goal is to create rogue ap and replace original AP signal by strength. Thanks !
If you're looking to create a RougeAP, AWUS036NHA will always be the best choice. This is based on an Atheros chip, so it supports all WiFi modes built on the hardware, like AP mode. There isn't any card that can make a better RougeAP than this one. The advantage of the hardware-based AP mode (only possible on this card) is that the access point is made by the card on it's chip like a router does, its not a fake AP based in software that really use a lot of CPU. Side note: You might want to do some research on how to take advantage of the built in hardware AP mode of the card and how to use it, instead of just following the typical airbase-ng usage tutorials. Otherwise you won't take advantage of it.
Ok, thank's for the reply ! What about the maximum output power, even if i change de CRDA regulatory settings, i will not get 33 dBm (2000 mW) with this card ? (i can get 30 dBm with my laptop's built-in broadcom bcm4311 wifi card, and 33 dBm with an fake/cloned AWUS036NHR i'v bought on Amazon) (Fake AWUS036NHR is a piece of crap btw)
I don't believe you'll get 2000mW, at least that doesn't happen on mine. I've one of the first ones ever sold, maybe the current model is better? However, I doubt it. When you get yours do some testing and post the results. Anyway the output power, as I've said multiple times here on the forum is not the most important thing. Most of time cards with higher output values will give you worse results because there will be much noise and their sensitivity will be very low causing you not to be able to "hear" other devices... but they will be able to "hear" your card (no point in this). This is not easy to accomplish. Even if your signal is stronger than the "original AP" physics will always be more important. What I mean is that if the "original AP" is closer to your target, even if your signal is stronger, the target will choose the "original AP" because it will be able to associate with it faster. Probably the "original AP" will be able to connect the client before you even got a change to start negotiating the connection. To avoid this race condition issue, what you can do is set another card to deauthenticate the target from the "original AP". It not guaranteed it will work, but it will help. Most clients will change to your rouge AP if by some reason they can't get a stable connection with another one more closer. The usual tactic with RogueAPs is to get closer to the target so physics / race condition is in your favor.
Great. I'm buying a AWUS036NHA today. I'll post here when i do some tests on it ! About the maximum output txpower, it seems the regulatory domain for the AWUS036NHA is built in the pcb EEPROM, so if you try to change it to BO for example, it won't work. /var/log/messages > iw reg set BO Different from an unlocked card that would let you choose any region (like mine) > iw reg set BO Probably, if you check your kernel logs, you'll see the "cfg80211: DFS Master region: " default set to some region (!?) Have you tried hacking/changing your crda regulatory files to your card's default domain ? Thanks !
Some card may have the region burned on them. I'm not sure if this is the case, but to go around this you should tweak the power limitations for the default burned region instead of trying to change it. Check this links: https://dscallday96.wordpress.com/2013/08/14/maximizing-the-tx-power-of-alfa-awus036nha/ https://forums.kali.org/showthread.php?19481-Alfa-AWUS036NHA-Tx-Power-Boost-Guide http://askubuntu.com/questions/597546/iwconfig-wlan0-txpower-30mw-not-working And like I said before many many times, someone of the 2nd link said it also:
Yes... i've already done that on my OS... i've tweaked BO from 30 dBm to 33 dBm... That's why i asked if you have already tried to tweak your NHA default region ? Or maybe a firmware hack https://ttys1.wordpress.com/2012/04...main-crda-of-realtec-wireless-device-drivers/
From your last log, I would try to set 00 and GB to 33dBm. Looks like the card is somehow forcing the kernel to stay in GB/00. So you tweak the output for GB/00 and it should be fine.
Guys, amp it. When you start turning the cards power up censored even when you don't) these cards fry. It's always sly problems when they start burning out. Suddenly you can't connect or see associated clients but you'll be able to see APs just fine. Signal will stop, start, freeze, disconnect you at random once they have been on a few minutes. That sort of stuff can lead to days and days of "little adjustments" that never fix the problem. So, jump on ebay, find someone in china who sells some obnoxiously high watt amplifier with the rp-sma sockets so you can just screw it to your alfa card. Your cards will last longer and adding just a single watt of power can push you way past what's needed if you're already getting signal, just not a strong one. I've seen 8 watt amps on ebay before. That's the sort of power that doesn't just grab a handshake, it :censored slaps the laptop out of someone's lap and helps it's self to anything it wants in the kitchen on the way out. Which is why you're buying it from china. Not something you're going to find at your local puter shop. It's dangerous, it lights you up on the map if anyone with a directional antenna starts to wonder what's going on. However, if you're serious about gain, that's the correct way of going about getting it. aaaaaand now i'm on the "list".
Yeah I know that pain, unfortunately. The time where you can't test and get proper results you think everything might be wrong with the software you do whatever you can and you can't even get solid results to compare your adjustments... and then suddenly the card doesn't work anymore. Can you show us some real data on this? What about the sensitivity issue, what do you see here? Doesn't it actually generate so much signal noise that renders the signal useless? Thank you.
These work but under the right conditions "i've only used them in rural areas for point to point wifi", They usually come with a omni antenna which is useless,use a panel or cantenna, and cheap cable, the noise difference between good cable is amazing. But as the come from ebay @TCB13 your right pretty useless, with omni etc. https://forum.aircrack-ng.org/index.php?topic=604.0
